Humulus lupulus 'Golden Tassels'. Jasmine Jasminum officinale. Parthenocissus tricuspidata. Passion Flower. Trachelospermum Star Jasmine. Vitis Grape Vine.
Securing a framework for your climber. Unless your climber is self-clinging, you'll need to install a framework for it to twine around prior to planting. Whatever structure you choose, it should be strong and secure as mature climbing plants become heavy with age. Some of the best options are:. A trellis is an architectural structure made of an open framework or lattice of interwoven or intersecting pieces of wood, bamboo or sometimes metal used to support and display climbing plants.
Small obelisks can just be pushed into the soil, whilst larger ones may need to be anchored into the ground with a concrete footing. Growing climbers through a host is an excellent way to get more from the same space, particularly as you can time each plant's display so one comes after the other, prolonging the interest. For example, a spring-flowering clematis would partner well with a crab apple in its blossoming prime. When to plant. Container grown climbers can be planted at any time of the year, providing the ground is not frozen or waterlogged and it's not excessively windy.
If you're able to choose, autumn is best as the soil is still warm enough to encourage some root growth before winter sets in. If you have an exposed garden and are looking to grow a climber in a container, plant in late spring so your plants have the full summer to become established before the colder weather.
Autumn is the best time to plant your climbers if you have the choice. Water your climber well before planting and allow the excess water to drain away.
Plant cm Dig your planting hole twice as wide and 1. If you have a heavy clay soil, break up the sides and bottom of the hole by gently pricking the smeared surfaces with a fork - this will allow the roots to grow into the surrounding soil. Mix the backfill soil with plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as manure or compost and leave it to one side. This is particularly important when planting south or west facing sites as the longer exposure to the sun will dry out the ground more quickly.
Gently remove your plant from its container and tease out any congested roots at the base so they grow away from the rootball and into the surrounding soil. Position at the centre of the planting hole and check the depth using a cane laid across the planting hole.
Virtually all climbers should be planted at the same depth as they were in the pot with the top of the rootball in line with the soil level.
If the climber is standing too high you'll need to remove some of the soil in the bottom of the hole, or if it's too low then top it up a bit. The exception is Clematis which prefer to be planted 6cm 2. This helps protect the base of the stems underground if the dreaded clematis wilt disease attacks.
Although affected clematis will dieback to ground level, there is a good chance that they will re-sprout from underground buds at the base of the stems, effectively saving the plant.
When planting, position your climber in the centre of the hole and lean it at a 45 degree angle towards the bottom of the support, before backfilling with your planting mix. Carefully firm down the ground around your plant to eliminate air pockets, water thoroughly, then mulch with bark, pebbles or decorative stone to preserve moisture and suppress weeds. Initial Training. Most climbers will be supplied in a pot secured to a bamboo cane with plastic ties.
Remove these ties using scissors and untwine the plant from the cane sufficiently to allow its stems to spread out. If you're using wire supports, slip the top of the cane under the first wire to hold it in place. If your climber is multi-stemmed from the base you can install a framework of three canes in a fan shape, again slipping the top of each one under the wires to hold them in place, and training a stem up each cane.
Tie the canes and shoots to your wire supports using soft garden twine, cutting off any excess. Finally, prune any weak of leggy stems not being used for the main framework back to ground level.
If you're growing your climber through a trellis, obelisk, pergola or any other structure, follow the same principles - help your climber to reach the supports using canes if required, and tie in the steps using soft garden twine.
Ongoin g Training and Garden Care. Secondly, bear in mind that supports for the climber will need to be put in place before you plant your climber. Read our advice on training climbers. Need more inspiration? Take a look at seven climbing plant combinations.
If the bed is small and the soil poor, remove some of the soil and replace it with good topsoil mixed with organic matter and planting fertiliser. Water the climber and remove it from its pot.
Carefully tease the roots away from the rootball — this will encourage them to venture off into the newly conditioned soil. Dig a planting hole a little distance from the wall or fence to avoid the very driest spot — at least 30cm out, preferably 45cm. While most climbers should be planted with the top of the rootball at soil level, clematis benefit from being planted cm deeper. Climbing roses should have the knobbly graft union at soil level. Water in well, then untie the plant stems and spread them out evenly, leaning the stems in to their new support and tying in securely.
For self-clinging climbers, put in short canes to bridge the gap between the plant and the support. When planting, point the climber in the direction you want it to grow by tilting the rootball at a 45 degree angle.
Growing climbers up other plants is a great way to add an extra season of interest to trees, spring-flowering shrubs and evergreens. Climbers always head towards the sun, so the trick when training them is always to plant them on the shady, north side of your living support.
To clad a wall with a shrub such as ceanothus , set up series of horizontal wires, as above. Tie in the main shoot vertically, then fan out the side branches and tie in too. After flowering, remove any branches growing out from the wall, and tie in other shoots to fill any gaps. After the first two years, trim all flowered shoots to cm.
First cut back any excess growth in spring to keep its shape against the wall, then in late summer snip the new growth back to just beyond the berries so they stand out against a leafy background.
This charming hardy climber creates a canopy of glossy green foliage, which in summer is strewn with flat white panicles of flowers on long stems. A graceful small grass with bright green foliage in summer that morphs into spectacular shades of bronze in winter.
Ideal for adding to mixed borders. Add colour to your garden this winter, select from pansy 'Colourburst', 'Grande Fragrance', wallflower 'Wizard' and viola 'Valentino'.
Home Plants Climbing plants. This review contains affiliate links and we may receive a commission for purchases made. Please read our affiliates FAQ page to find out more. Black-centered, orange flowers of black-eyed Susan.
Trachelospermum asiaticum. Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum. Grapevine Vitis vinifera. Crimson glory vine Vitis coignetiae. Hops Humulus lupus.
Ivy Hedera helix. Climbing hydrangea Hydrangea petiolaris. Climbers for wildlife — pyracantha. Turning a vine-eye with pliers to tighten a wire support for a climber. Firming in a newly planted climber. Planting a climber on the shady side of a shrub that it can grow up. Blue caenothus flowers. Vibrant red pyracantha berries. Subscribe now.
Buy now for spring flowers. Double up for 1P more. Evergreen climbing hydrangea.
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